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Canwest News Service
Not long after arriving on an early morning flight from New York, David Chang and Peter Meehan are sitting at McKiernan Luncheonette drinking a bottle of Boulay Sancerre and eating cold roast beef with mustard. Both are visiting Montreal for their second time, Meehan, a veteran writer for The New York Times, was here a couple of years ago writing a piece for the Choice Tables column in the travel section and Chang was here on less glamorous terms: doctor's orders from a near-nervous breakdown.
What a difference two years make. Last week the two were in town for a 48-hour media booze-and-food blitz, celebrating the release of their new Momofuku cookbook. And celebrate they should: In its first week, the book made the Times bestseller Extended list and is on both Amazon and Publishers Weekly's lists of the best books of the year.
For those who aren't familiar with the Momo story, a quick fact sheet:
There are four restaurants within the Momo empire, all of which exist within two blocks in Manhattan's East Village. There is the original noodle bar, which opened in 2004; Momofuku Ssam Bar, which opened around the corner in late 2006; the Milk Bar (a dairy bar and bakery); and, finally, KO, the two Michelinstar gem, which opened in early 2008. Momofuku, which is Japanese for the Lucky Peach, is signalled by a little orange peach and nothing else — a trademark for any foodie.
At McKiernan, Meehan explains that this trip was really more of an excuse to come to Montreal than some brilliant marketing strategy. "We just wanted to get back here and eat. And the people at Appetite for Books [who hosted a cooking demo and book signing on the Nov. 19] were so helpful and made it so easy."
Later that evening at Joe Beef — the three partners of Joe Beef, Liverpool House and McKiernan are friends with Chang — Chang explains why Montreal is one of his favourite cities: "It's a little bit New York, a little Paris … it's a completely unique food culture."
We start with two dozen Malpeque oysters and a magnum of white burgundy and talk about some of Chang's must-eats in Montreal: "Joe Beef, Liverpool House, Au Pied de Cochon, Wilensky's, St-Viateur bagels … Each place I've been to,
whether high-end or low-end, seems delicious and authentic. It just seems like there is a high concentration of great places."
Meehan interjects that both the Atwater and Jean Talon Market are two of his favourites to visit: "In New York City, we have absolutely nothing like this. And in America, when markets like this open, they are usually in some high-end shopping mall, a la Whole Foods. The markets in Montreal are for people who actually cook."
The meal continues with smoked pork tongue, lamb kidneys with sauce Paloise, pork belly and crayfish, and a giant fluke with Brussels sprouts and caviar. There was more, but after the magnum of white, a bottle of Chablis and a magnum of Marcel Lapierre's Morgon it became difficult to keep track.
It's clear that Chang and Frederic Morin, Joe Beef's co-owner and cochef, have a kinship of sorts, dreaming up inventive recipes, such as "Tim Hortons doughnut ice cream" while sipping tumblers of lip-tingling Fernet-Branca. When I ask what it is about Joe Beef that Chang loves, he says simply, "The food is delicious. And you really can't replicate the vibe, because of the atmosphere and people."
The next night around 2 a.m., after ribs and lobster spaghetti at Liverpool House, we're at New Dynasty, a must-visit in Chinatown, chowing down on crab and BBQ chicken.
Meehan, who is on his third cookbook, speaks of the Momo book with Chang as a truly exceptional experience, now going on its second year. "Unlike a lot of chefs, Dave can write, so it was more collaborative than other books. He is a huge cookbook fan with strong opinions, so his perspective was actually really helpful."
We take a trip to Wilensky's, a Montreal institution, and while eating a "special" (hot baloney and salami sandwich with mustard), Chang looks at the surly men behind the counter and the notification that you will be charged extra if you ask for no mustard, "This is my dream restaurant." Instantly, Chang has formed a kinship with the most unfriendly lunch place in town. (Not surprising for someone who, when asked about the "cookability" of his books in last issue of Gourmet, said, "I don't know. I kept on saying to Pete, 'I don't know who the f—is going to cook this sh–.' ")
After a successful press stop, Meehan and Chang leave to fly back to New York, looking more tired yet more content than when they arrived. It feels good to know the city has such great fans, and vice versa, and that they're only six hours away.
