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A very vino holiday season; Gifts to please the palates of the wine lovers in your life

Saturday, November 21st, 2009 | 6:40 am

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Canwest News Service

Wine is a popular gift during the Yuletide and New Year's holidays. With a marvellous range of flavours and aromas, the appropriate wines can enhance the foods consumed at this time of year and add festive cheer to celebrations.

But as with every gift you give, use your best judgment. "There's not much point in giving wine to people who don't have an appreciation of it," says John Schreiner, Vancouver-based author of eight books on wine including The Wines of Canada (Mitchell Beazley, 2005) and The Wineries of British Columbia (third edition, Whitecap Books, 2009).

"When you do give wine," he adds, "know something about the recipient's tastes and interests. Does he or she like red or white, Pinot Noir or Chardonnay? If she enjoyed a recent trip to Italy, an Italian red may be a good choice."

There are two types of wine gifts you'll give over the holidays: the bottle of wine you'll present to your host or hostess at a dinner or house party, and the gift of wine you'll wrap up as a formal gift.

"I'd spend about $25 on a bottle of wine I'd take to a party, and about $40 on more formal gifts," Schreiner says. "But I'd steer away from extremely popular wines. Chances are the person will already have it. Show a little imagination."

Randie Kushnier, Winnipeg-based president and chairman of the Opimian Society, a Canadian wine-buying co-operative, notes that most Canadian wine sellers, both independently run wine stores and provincial liquor control boards, are well aware of current consumer interest in wine and are training their staff to help shoppers.

If there's a good local winery in your area, Schreiner says a gift from one of them may be a winner. "Here in British Columbia, so much pride is taken in quality local wines that a good B.C. wine is the socially acceptable gift."

He tends to give red wines at this time of year "when the cuisine is often more flattered by reds." Looking beyond local? He suggests the big Sicilian reds and recommends Dr. Cosimo Taurino winery's Salice Salentino Riserva, which he calls "a low-risk choice: a reliable, rich, full-bodied red with soft tannins and available across Canada." He also suggests looking at Primitivos, Italy's version of California's Zinfandels but with the structure of Old World wines.

For white wine fans, he suggests a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand's Wither Hills winery. "Other than France and possibly Chile, New Zealand is the best place for Sauvignon Blancs. Wither Hills' version has a vivid personality, the aromas jump right out of the glass. It has a fairly high acidity making it refreshingly tangy on the palate." It might be too vivid for some palates, he adds, and a Pinot Grigio from Italy or by Canada's Inniskillin will deliver most of that pleasure without being quite so theatrical.

Sparkling wine is always a hit during the holidays. "If you can afford a real French Champagne, it will start around $50," Schreiner says. "If you don't want to spend that kind of money, look at Spanish sparkling wines." He suggests Freixenet and Segura Viudas.

For extra-special occasions, Kushnier suggests Sir Winston Churchill Cuvee from France's Pol Roger winery. "It's the most spectacular champagne I've ever tasted with a toasty, nutty flavour. Around $250."

For the true wine connoisseur, stemware or wine accessories may be more appropriate gifts than wine itself. Schreiner suggests stemware by Austria's Riedel company, available in good cookware stores. Kushnier recommends German glass-maker Eisch's Bellagio line of "breathable" glasses. "The rough surface inside the glass super-oxygenates the wine. They come in red, white, champagne and burgundy styles, about $30 each." He suggests giving at least six glasses.

A host of aerators are on the market that allow wine to open up and release its flavours. Both Schreiner and Kushnier suggest Vinturi aerators that run between $35 and $70. Final Touch enhancers, with different models for bottles, glasses and decanters, will soften the astringency of a young wine, Kushnier adds. He also recommends Tony Aspler's The Wine Atlas of Canada (Random House, 2006).

When sending gifts of wine out of town, Kushnier suggests packing the bottle in a special Styrofoam container and having a courier deliver the parcel. Or you can contact a wine store in the recipient's city, pay for the bottle you select and send a card saying that the gift is waiting to be picked up.

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