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Canwest News Service
VANCOUVER – A bunch of thoughts this week beginning with a very positive update on the Cellared in Canada (CiC) issue.
The British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch (BCLDB) has completed its investigation into the murky labelling issue and after consulting with its customers will launch new signage in all stores beginning Monday, Nov. 9 to clarify the provenance of CiC wines.
"Bottled in British Columbia from International and Domestic Wine" is the new verbiage that will appear on store signs for wine in glass, while its larger, bag-in-the-box or wine casks brethren will be sold under the heading "Wine Casks Packaged in BC from International and Domestic Wine."
There will be shelf talkers for a month or so explaining the signage changes. The terminology on the talkers is, "Wines in this section have been Bottled (or Packaged) in British Columbia from International and Domestic Wine. These products are identified on the package as Cellared in Canada.'"
Fair enough, although saying it's packaged in B.C. still ties the category to whatever power and weight the word B.C. instils in prospective wine buyers. That said, I think we can live with the modifications and call it a major improvement for consumers seeking clarification about where the juice comes from.
Let's hope the federal government steps up and supports these changes by making them law so we can see similar changes on the labels themselves, since none of this wine is consumed inside BCLDB stores.
A far more interesting twist is additional information that will be displayed in the VQA section of BCLDB stores. For the unaware, a large slice of 100-per-cent B.C. grown and produced wine is sold under the Vintners Quality Alliance or VQA symbol. The problem, according to BCLDB officials who polled their customers, is many shoppers had no idea VQA meant the wine was 100-per- cent B.C. grown and produced.
It's been two decades since VQA was rolled out and I'm guessing both B.C. and Ontario producers would be shocked to learn the VQA brand may not be as recognizable as they think.
In any event, the VQA section will get an upgrade of sorts with signage that states: BC VQA 100 per cent British Columbia Wine.
Where that leaves Wines of Marked Distinction, also produced in B.C., and any other orphan wines made in B.C. remains to be seen. As promised, for the moment I'm moving on to far more important wine issues.
I should mention that both the Italians and Napa Valley producers were in town last week. The Italians are as charming as ever, speak very little of the recession, and insist sales are strong and prices are all the Euro's fault. Italian wine marketing has always been a bit unconventional and it seems as if it has served them well in the recession.
Contrast that with the large number of Napa Valley winery owner and winemaker sightings in town. Napa is suffering big time. With a limited number of wine styles and super high prices, they are stuck between a rock and a hard place. Normally the latter is good for vines, but in terms of wines sales, it is a no go.
The good news is the ridiculously high Napa pricing is getting an overhaul as a direct result of several winery principals getting back out on the road and getting in touch with the Vancouver market. Many were shocked by the retail price, not to mention the restaurant wine list price of their wines. Few had any idea how large the markup tax is or how it works and how a wine that sells for $35 in San Francisco can end up selling in Vancouver for $60. I'm told we can expect some price relief soon. Amen to that; we can't wait. In the meantime, today our vino six-pack begins in France.
La Difference Viognier-Muscat 2008 has a floral, spicy, orange, ginger, melon, lemon nose and as you might expect, a lively and juicy palate. Look for green apple, floral, orange, honey, mineral, nectarine flavours and plenty of finesse. Try now with pan-Asian dishes. Sold in private wine stores only.
Similarly aromatic and sensational on the nose is the Tapiz Torrontés 2008. We love the mix of Chinese five-spice with juicy, ripe, peachy, pear fruit with green apple skin flecks throughout. Balanced, lively delicious white wine you can serve with roast chicken or sushi, or solo before dinner. Sold in private wine stores only.
From California, the Round Hill Chardonnay 2008 offers a soft, easy palate with spicy lees, clove, melon, baked peach, honey, vanilla flavours. Regular straight-up California chardonnay. Sold in private wine stores only.
Round, fresh, juicy but slightly sweet describes the Jean Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from Mendoza. Look for cassis jam, blackberry, cedar, liquorice flavours, all in an easy-drinking style for current consumption. Steak, anyone?
Then there's the Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2007. Look for Adelaide fruit with blueberry jam, black cherry, spicy, liquorice notes and rich smooth palate. More black olive, blueberry, black cherry flavours flecked with herbal, garrigue, vanilla and liquorice mark the finish. It has a fine fruit core. Grilled lamb works well here.
To end the column, there's Quinta do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage Port 2004. Ripe, round, supple and elegant, the balance of acidity and sugar here is sheer luxury. Black fruits and chocolate with spice and spirit. A few roasted nuts and a book are the match here.
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